In Search of a Treasure in Calinog

The town of Calinog is located in the central part of Panay Island. It is the last municipality in the central part of the Province of Iloilo.

Calinog is home to the Hirinugyaw-Suguidanonay Festival. From a Visayan term for "jubilation" or "rejoicing," "Hirinugyaw" was inspired by the Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo City and has become a feast with success for the people Calinog through a festivity showing the town's devotion to the Child Jesus. People make effort to perform colorful cultural dances.

Later on, the presentation becomes highly complex with the incorporation of a Sugidanon---traditional stories on a town's history and culture narrated through chanting. The festival functions to create or promote a sense of community and in the process help the people establish ties with their heritage.

In a secluded place in Brgy. Garangan of the said town, lived one of the country’s National Living Treasure, recognized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts(NCCA) the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan(GAMABA) award—Mr. Federico Caballero.

Mr. Cabellero is a Panay-Bukidnon from the mountains of Central Panay, who have been recognized for his untiring efforts to document the oral literature, particularly the epics of his people. These ten epics, rendered in a language that is no longer spoken, constitute an encyclopedic folklore only the most preserving and gifted on disciples can learn.

He painstakingly worked to preserved this tradition which is in the danger of extinction because of modern influences. With the help of scholars, he was able to make this dream come true and continues to uphold  his own love for his people’s folklore, which began when he was still a small child when his mother would put his brothers and sisters to sleep.The theme of these epics are vast and would cover concerns in history, family and the environment.

Along with their epic chants, weaving is another tradition the Panay Bukidnon people pass on from generation to generation. And Mr. Caballero is also a strong advocate of the preservation on their traditional handwoven costume called the Tinubok. With its detailed embroidery, it tells the colorful story of the Panay Bukidnon people, a story worthy of remembering and preserving. Along with his siblings, the Caballero brothers, Federico Caballero strives to cultivate the importance of preserving this heritage to the younger generation.

Getting THERE

Getting to Calinog through public transport Calinog Bus Line(CBL) through Ungka Terminal will cost P60.00 and will take an hour and a half ride. Upon arrival in Calinog, one can go directly to the Municipal Hall and proceed to the tourism office where the accommodating staff will gladly assist you in your travel plans.

Reaching Brgy. Garangan will be an unforgettable adventure. From the town center of Calinog, you will have to travel around 15-20 minutes going to Brgy. Agcalaga--the road going to this barangay is passable both by big and small vehicles. A motorcycle ride from the town proper to Agcalaga costs P40.00

The adventure begins when you have to take a 30-minute motorcycle ride from Brgy. Agcalaga going up to Brgy. Garangan. Motorcycle are on standby and will charge P25.00 for the ride.

During the trip “up” to Garangan, you will have to pass by rocky, wet and slippery thoroughfares. Not to mention steep, as in “very” steep, terrains that will make your heart pound. You will have to pass through narrow roads with ravines ready to welcome you with just a single mistake from the driver. Series of landslides occur in this particular part of town, so residents and the local government unit will have to create passable improvised roads going to Barangay Garangan.

One would simply rely on the “expertise” of the motorcycle driver. These drivers would meet halfway on the road with the other giving way on the opposite side. There seems to be a mutual understanding among them when it comes to hurdling the landscape where they pass by day after day. Most of them have no slippers on when driver to make it more comfortable for them to deal with the mud on the road. An assistant will ride with you and will sit on the gasoline tank part of the motorcycle, the logic is to create balance with you as a back rider, to avoid the motorcycle from tumbling down during the ride.

The motorcycles transport residents, and even heavy supplies which includes charcoal, rice, and other commodities which makes the drivers connoisseurs of this occupation.

After almost 30-minutes of heart stopping adventure, you will reach Barangay Garangan where the School for Living Tradition(SLT) is located. the School for Living Tradition, or "Balay Turun-an, was established in 2011 with the help of the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA), National Commission On Indigenous Peoples (NCIP), UP Center for West Visayan Studies and the local government of Calinog. The SLT is where older members of the community teach the younger ones their indigenous knowledge systems and practices so that the generation will be encouraged in persevering their heritage. One of these is the epic chants that Mr. Caballero is strongly advocating and the other is the dying craft called Tinubok.

The Tinubok Craft

Tinubok is the traditional craft of the Panay Bukidnon tribe to adorn their clothes through embroidery.

The designs reflect the culture and tradition of the people and is shown in various designs. One of these is the Binunghay (patterned from amacan or bamboo mat which they use to dry rice, tabungos or bamboo bin which they use for storing, alat or basket which they use to carry their market buys, and kararaw or winnower they use in drying fish and in segregating rice grains from unwanted elements.

Other designs include the Labog or Roselle flower and the Matang Punay or the eyes of the Punay bird. The Tuko-tuko or cart, Binalagon or vine, Sudlikama or the skin of a phyton, and Sikag-sikag or fish bone.

So impressive that the Panay Bukidnon tribe was able to conceptualize a craft reflecting their daily lives and executed with such artistry and handcrafted in the most intricate way. Indeed a craft worth preserving and passing to the next generation of Suludnons ( another term used to describe the Panay Bukidnon tribe).

According to Tay Pedring(Federico Caballero) and the Caballero brothers, craftsmanship begins with respect for one’s heritage and preserving the authenticity of the craft.

The only way to improve one’s skills, he says, is to immerse oneself, learn the technique and to practice. Only in perfecting one’s craft can there be genuine reward.

Mr. Federico Caballero added that he is determined to pass on the tradition to his people especially the younger generation. So that when he dies, their customs will remain in the hearts and mind of the Panay Bukidnon tribe and will be their own source of pride.

Photos by: Batchoy Republic, Municipality of Calinog and Polarized Media
credit to some info source: NCCA website